×

Fully dispersive dynamic models for surface water waves above varying bottom. II: Hybrid spatial-spectral implementations. (English) Zbl 1360.76064

Summary: In Part I [E. W. C. Van Groesen and Andonowati, Wave Motion 48, No. 7, 658–667 (2011; Zbl 1239.76018)], we derived models for the propagation of coastal waves from deep parts in the ocean to shallow parts near the coast. In this paper, we will describe hybrid spatial-spectral implementations of the models that retain the basic variational formulation of irrotational surface waves that underlays the derivation of the continuous models. It will be shown that the numerical codes are robust and efficient from results of simulations of two test cases of waves above a 1:20 sloping bottom from 30 m to 15 m depth: one simulation of a bichromatic wave train, and one of irregular waves of JONSWAP type. Measurements of scaled experiments at MARIN hydrodynamic laboratory and simulations with two other numerical codes will be used to test the performance. At the end of the full time trace of 3.5 h details of the irregular waves that travelled over more than 5000 m are clearly resolved with a correlation of more than 90%, in calculation times of less than 5% of the physical time. Also freak-like waves that appear in the irregular wave are shown to be modelled to a high degree of accuracy.

MSC:

76B15 Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction

Citations:

Zbl 1239.76018

Software:

MIKE

References:

[1] van Groesen, E.; Andonowati, Fully dispersive dynamic models for surface water waves above varying bottom, part 1: model equations, Wave Motion, 48, 657-666 (2011), http:dx.doi.org10.1016j.wavemoti.2011.05.004 · Zbl 1239.76018
[2] D. Adytia, E. van Groesen, Optimized Variational 1D Boussinesq modelling of coastal waves propagating over a slope, May (2011) (submitted for publication).; D. Adytia, E. van Groesen, Optimized Variational 1D Boussinesq modelling of coastal waves propagating over a slope, May (2011) (submitted for publication).
[3] Madsen, P. A.; Bingham, H. B.; Liu, H., A new Boussinesq method for fully nonlinear waves from shallow to deep water, J. Fluid Mech., 462, 1-30 (2002) · Zbl 1061.76009
[4] Madsen, P. A.; Sorensen, O. R., A new form of the boussinesq equations with imporved linear dispersion characteristics, part 2: a slowly varying bathymetry, Coastal Eng., 18, 183-204 (1992)
[5] Luke, J. C., A variational principle for a fluid with a free surface, J. Fluid Mech., 27, 395-397 (1967) · Zbl 0146.23701
[6] Zakharov, V. E., Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid, J. Appl. Mech. Tech. Phys., 2, 190-194 (1968)
[7] Craig, W.; Sulem, C., Numerical simulation of gravity waves, J. Comput. Phys., 108, 73-83 (1993) · Zbl 0778.76072
[8] Bateman, W. J.D.; Swan, C.; Taylor, P. H., On the efficient numerical simulation of directionally spread surface water waves, J. Comput. Phys., 174, 277-305 (2001) · Zbl 1106.86300
[9] Xu, Liwei; Guyenne, P., Numerical simulation of three-dimensional nonlinear water waves, J. Comput. Phys., 228, 8446-8466 (2009) · Zbl 1423.76071
[10] van Groesen, E.; Andonowati, Variational derivation of KdV-type of models for surface water waves, Phys. Lett. A, 366, 195-201 (2007) · Zbl 1203.76031
[11] van Groesen, E.; Andonowati; She Liam, L.; Lakhturov, I., Accurate modelling of uni-directional surface waves, J. Comput. Appl. Math., 234, 1747-1756 (2010) · Zbl 1407.76018
[12] Holthuijsen, L. H., Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters (2007), Cambridge University Press
[13] Kharif, C.; Pelinovsky, E.; Slunyaev, A., Rogue Waves in the Ocean (2009), Springer · Zbl 1230.86001
[14] Dysthe, K.; Krogstad, H. E.; Mller, P., Oceanic roguewaves, Annu. Rev. Fluid Mech., 40, 287-310 (2008) · Zbl 1136.76009
[15] Chabchoub, A.; Hoffmann, N. P.; Akhmediev, N., Rogue wave observation in a water wave tank, Phys. Rev. Lett., 106, 204502 (2011)
[16] Slunyaev, A.; Pelinovsky, E.; Guedes Soares, C., Modeling freak waves from the North Sea, Appl. Ocean Res., 27, 12-22 (2005)
[17] G. Ducrozet, F. Bonnefoy, D. Le Touze, P. Ferrant, Investigation of freak waves in large scale 3D higher-order spectral simulations, IWWWFB, Plitvice, Croatia, 2007, pp. 69-72.; G. Ducrozet, F. Bonnefoy, D. Le Touze, P. Ferrant, Investigation of freak waves in large scale 3D higher-order spectral simulations, IWWWFB, Plitvice, Croatia, 2007, pp. 69-72.
[18] Pelinovsky, E.; Sergeeva, A., Numerical modelling of the KdV random wave field, Eur. J. Mech. B Fluids, 27, 425-434 (2006) · Zbl 1122.76020
[19] I. Lakhturov, D. Adytia, E. van Groesen, Optimized variational 1D Boussinesq modelling for broad-band waves over flat bottom, Wave Motion (submitted for publication).; I. Lakhturov, D. Adytia, E. van Groesen, Optimized variational 1D Boussinesq modelling for broad-band waves over flat bottom, Wave Motion (submitted for publication). · Zbl 1360.76053
[20] Mike by DHI software. www.mikebydhi.com; Mike by DHI software. www.mikebydhi.com
[21] T. Bunnik, Benchmark workshop on numerical wave modelling, MARIN Report Number 70022-1-RD, November 2010.; T. Bunnik, Benchmark workshop on numerical wave modelling, MARIN Report Number 70022-1-RD, November 2010.
This reference list is based on information provided by the publisher or from digital mathematics libraries. Its items are heuristically matched to zbMATH identifiers and may contain data conversion errors. In some cases that data have been complemented/enhanced by data from zbMATH Open. This attempts to reflect the references listed in the original paper as accurately as possible without claiming completeness or a perfect matching.