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Sport climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics

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Competition climbing
at the Games of the XXXIII Olympiad
VenueLe Bourget Sport Climbing Venue
Dates5–10 August 2024
No. of events4 (2 men, 2 women)
Competitors68
← 2020
2028 →
Sport climbing at the
2024 Summer Olympics
Qualification
Combinedmenwomen
Speedmenwomen

Competition climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics took place from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020.[1] The total number of medal events was doubled from two in the previous edition because the boulder-and-lead tandem had been separated from the speed format.[2] Furthermore, the number of climbers increased from 40 to 68.[2][3]

Venue

[edit]
The venue is Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue (Site d'escalade du Bourget).

The climbing competition is taking place at the Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Le Bourget, in the Seine-Saint-Denis suburb of Paris. Along with the aquatic centre in Saint Denis, the climbing venue serves as one of the two sports facilities to be built specifically for the Games.[4]

Competition format

[edit]

Since the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics for the 2020 Summer Olympics, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has advocated for three separate medal events: bouldering, lead, and speed; however, climbing in Tokyo 2020 was limited to a single 'combined' format for each gender.[5] The format, along with the scoring system multiplying a placement from each discipline, drew criticisms from athletes, prompting a significant overlap between the boulder-and-lead tandem and speed climbing specialists.[6]

For Paris 2024, the International Olympic Committee decided to award four medals in two separate disciplines per gender, namely, boulder-and-lead combined and speed.[5]

Speed

[edit]
See also: Speed climbing § Competition speed climbing

Speed climbing will be a standalone event, following the current standard single-elimination competition speed climbing format with athletes climbing side-by-side up a 15-metre wall.[1]

Boulder-and-lead combined

[edit]
See also: Lead climbing § Competition lead climbing, and Bouldering § Competition bouldering

At the 2020 Summer Olympics, points were calculated by multiplying each athlete's position in the lead, boulder, and speed with the athlete who obtained the lowest total winning.[1] With the speed separated from the combined format for Paris 2024, the IFSC has introduced a system that computes the total score from the lead and boulder phases, with the athlete who garners the most points winning.

The proposed scoring format will be distributed as follows:[7]

  • An athlete can earn a maximum of 200 points.
  • The maximum points for the boulder phase is 100; each of the four problems is worth up to 25.
    • Athletes earn 5 points for reaching the first zone, 10 for the second, and the full 25 for the top.
    • A tenth of a point (0.1) is deducted for each failed attempt to reach the next scoring position.
  • The maximum points for the lead phase are 100, attained by reaching and clipping the top of a route.
    • An athlete receives points for the final 40 moves of a route.
    • Counting from the top, the last 10 moves earn 4 points each, the previous 10 moves earn 3 each, the previous 10 moves earn 2 each, and the previous 10 moves earn 1 point each.
    • Moves below the final 40 do not collect any points.

This scoring format was first used (with a slightly different point distribution system)[5] in March 2022 at the Sharma Climbing test event in Barcelona, Spain,[8] before becoming internationally available to the sport climbers at two successful meets: the IFSC Climbing European Championships in Munich, Germany (August 2022)[8] and the IFSC Climbing World Cup series in Morioka, Japan (October 2022).[9]

Qualification

[edit]
Main article: Sport climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics – Qualification

A total of 68 quota places (28 for speed and 40 for boulder-and-lead combined) are available for Paris 2024, an increment of seventy percent from the Tokyo 2020 roster size (40). Each NOC is entitled to enter a maximum of four climbers (two per gender) in the two separate formats.[10][11]

The qualification period commenced at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, which took place between 1 and 12 August in Bern, Switzerland. There, ten spots were awarded to the highest-ranked climbers, respecting the two-athlete NOC limit for each gender: the top three medalists for the boulder-and-lead combined, along with the champion and runner-up for the speed climbing.[12] The remainder of the total quota were awarded to the twenty eligible climbers for the boulder-and-lead combined and ten for the speed, respectively, at each of the continental qualification tournaments (Africa, the Americas, Asia, Europe, and Oceania) over a three-month-long period (September to December 2023). Further qualification opportunities will be available at a triad of Olympic Qualifier Series events held between March and June 2024.[13]

Because France is the host country, a single spot is reserved for a French climber of each gender in each discipline if France doesn't otherwise have an athlete who qualifies. Four more quota places (two per gender) are reserved for the NOCs competing in each category under the Universality rule.[14][15]

Competition schedule

[edit]
Legend
B Boulder semifinal L Lead semifinal Q Qualification F Final
Schedule[16]
Event ↓ / Date → Mon 5 Aug 24 Tue 6 Aug 24 Wed 7 Aug 24 Thu 8 Aug 24 Fri 9 Aug 24 Sat 10 Aug 24
Men's combined B L F
Men's speed Q F
Women's combined B L F
Women's speed Q F

Participation

[edit]

In total of 68 climbers from 22 nations:

Medal summary

[edit]

A total of 12 medals were won by eight NOC's.[17]

Medal table

[edit]

  *   Host nation (France)

RankNOCGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Poland1012
2 Great Britain1001
 Indonesia1001
 Slovenia1001
5 China0202
6 United States0112
7 Japan0101
8 Austria0022
Totals (8 entries)44412

Medalists

[edit]
Event Gold Silver Bronze
Men's combined
details 		Toby Roberts
 Great Britain 		Sorato Anraku
 Japan 		Jakob Schubert
 Austria
Men's speed
details 		Veddriq Leonardo
 Indonesia 		Wu Peng
 China 		Sam Watson
 United States
Women's combined
details 		Janja Garnbret
 Slovenia 		Brooke Raboutou
 United States 		Jessica Pilz
 Austria
Women's speed
details 		Aleksandra Mirosław
 Poland 		Deng Lijuan
 China 		Aleksandra Kałucka
 Poland

Records broken

[edit]
See also: World and Olympic records set at the 2024 Summer Olympics
Event Round Climber Nation Time Date Record
Women's speed (speed) Qualification Zhou Yafei  China 6.54 5 August OR[18]
Women's speed (speed) Qualification Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi  Indonesia 6.52 5 August OR[18]
Women's speed (speed) Qualification Emma Hunt  United States 6.36 5 August OR[19]
Women's speed (speed) Qualification Aleksandra Mirosław  Poland 6.21 5 August WR[18]
Women's speed (speed) Qualification Aleksandra Mirosław  Poland 6.06 5 August WR[18]
Men's speed (speed) Bronze medal match Sam Watson  United States 4.74 8 August WR

See also

[edit]

References

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  1. ^ a b c "Paris 2024 – Sport Climbing". Paris Organising Committee for the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  2. ^ a b "Sport Climbing Officially Added To Paris 2024 Sports Programme!". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 7 December 2020. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  3. ^ "Olympic Games Paris 2024". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  4. ^ "Paris 2024 – Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue". Paris Organising Committee for the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. 17 July 2021. Retrieved 12 July 2022.
  5. ^ a b c Walker, Noah (23 December 2021). "The Paris Olympics – A New Scoring System". Gripped. Retrieved 12 July 2022.
  6. ^ Hart, Robert (3 August 2021). "Climbing Makes Historic Olympic Debut In Controversial New Format (Photos)". Forbes. Retrieved 12 July 2022.
  7. ^ "New Boulder & Lead Score Distribution to be Applied in Morioka, Iwate". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 19 September 2022. Retrieved 24 October 2022.
  8. ^ a b Walker, Noah (5 March 2022). "Chris Sharma's New Gym Hosts Paris Olympic Format Debut Competition". Gripped. Retrieved 12 July 2022.
  9. ^ "Japan to host IFSC Boulder & Lead World Cup this fall". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 25 May 2022. Retrieved 12 July 2022.
  10. ^ Martin, Marta (13 December 2022). "How to qualify for sport climbing (speed) at Paris 2024. The Olympics qualification system explained". International Olympic Committee. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  11. ^ Martin, Marta (13 December 2022). "How to qualify for sport climbing (boulder and lead) at Paris 2024. The Olympics qualification system explained". International Olympic Committee. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  12. ^ Berry, Natalie (17 May 2022). "Paris 2024 Olympic Sport Climbing Qualification System Announced". UKC. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  13. ^ "IFSC Calendar 2023: The Start of a New Olympic Qualification Path" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 12 September 2022. Retrieved 16 October 2022.
  14. ^ "Qualification System – Games of the XXXIII Olympiad – Sport Climbing Boulder & Lead" (PDF). International Federation of Sport Climbing. International Olympic Committee. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  15. ^ "Qualification System – Games of the XXXIII Olympiad – Sport Climbing Speed" (PDF). International Federation of Sport Climbing. International Olympic Committee. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  16. ^ "Paris 2024 Olympic Competition Schedule – Sport Climbing" (PDF). Paris Organising Committee for the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. p. 24. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
  17. ^ www.olympics.com/. Paris Organising Committee for the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. 10 August 2024 https://olympics.com/OG2024/pdf/OG2024/CLB/OG2024_CLB_C95_CLB-------------------------------.pdf. Retrieved 2 September 2024. {{cite web}}: Missing or empty |title= (help)
  18. ^ a b c d Burgman, John (2024-08-05). "Technical Issues & New World Records in Women's Olympic Speed Climbing". Climbing.com. Retrieved 2024-08-28.
  19. ^ Preece, Brian (2024-08-05). "Emma Hunt Finishes Second In Women's Speed Climbing Qualifiers". KSL Sports. Retrieved 2024-08-28.
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