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Far field asymptotics of the two-dimensional linearized sloping beach problem. (English) Zbl 0624.76015

The inverse Mellin transform solution for the two-dimensional linearized inviscid beach problem is used to derive far field asymptotic expansions. It is shown that a Poincaré expansion exists which is uniformly valid for all angles in the range of slopes considered.
Errors are noted in well-known repesentations of the solution for special slope angles, and the corrected forms indicate a possible change of wave type from progressing to standing as the bed is approached at a fixed distance from the shoreline. This change is shown to affect the steady second-order current near the bed, and reversal points of this current are computed for various beaches. The locations of these points are found to migrate seawards as the beach angle is decreased.

MSC:

76B15 Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction
35Q99 Partial differential equations of mathematical physics and other areas of application
76M99 Basic methods in fluid mechanics
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